NOTE: Perform this task only when the engine is cold. Under no circumstances should you open the radiator cap when the engine is still hot.
NOTE: Use only Honda compatible Type 2 (non-silicate) ethylene glycol based pre-mixed coolant. You can get it at a Honda bike or Honda car dealership and it usually comes in 3.85 litre jugs like the one pictured below. DO NOT use a Type 1 coolant as it has silicates in it which can cause premature wear of the water pump seals. |
Required Tools:
- Wrenchs - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
- Sockets - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
- Funnel
- Catch tray - Large
- Small Snub-nosed or Needle-nosed Pliers
- Philips Screwdriver
- Bike Lift (optional)
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| Step 1: Prepare the bike: |
| Park your bike in an area where spilled coolant won't be a big issue. It's impossible to change the coolant on this bike without getting some of it on the ground. I was able to catch the largest amount from the pump, but all the other areas I basically just let drain on the ground and then hosed up after. Therefore, make sure you do this in an area you can clean easily and that no children or pets are around. If you have a bike lift, it makes the job much easier. |
| Step 2: Move the gastank: |
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While the service manual asks you to remove the gastank, you really only need to pull it aft a few inches, so you can access the radiator cap. Remove the seats and the tank mounting bolt and pull the tank back a few inches. Just be careful with the fuel line on the left hand side. With the tank back a few inches, you can easily remove the one clip on the neck cover and access the radiator cap (see arrow). Remove the radiator cap now. |
| Step 3: Drain the front cyclinder and water pump: |
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Put your container under the water pump and remove the drain plug, which is located on the bottom of the engine, left side, below the kick stand (see arrow). You are draining not only the front cylinder, but also the radiator and the big hoses, so there's almost 2 litres that comes out here. Leave the plug out for now. |
| Step 4: Drain the rear cyclinder: |
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Remove the drain plug on the rear cylinder (see arrow). There's really no way to catch this fluid and it will just drain over your engine, so wash it up after. Luckily, there is very little fluid that comes from this drain. Also, when you open this drain port up, this will release an air lock and let more fluid drain out the water pump. Let things drain for a few minutes and then put both drain plugs back in and torque the bolts to 9 lbf-ft. It is also advisable to use new sealing washers. |
| Step 5: Drain and flush the reservoir: |
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Remove the cap from the coolant reservoir. |
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The service manual tells you to remove the reservoir and drain and flush it off the bike, but that would mean removing the gas tank AND the radiator, which is a pain... so what I did was just remove the lower hose from the reservoir (see arrow) and let it drain out. Now, there's a little bit that is left below the hose level, so I took my garden hose and put it in the filler hole and gently rinsed out the reservoir until all the old fluid had been washed out. You can tell this when there is no more foaming and no green color anymore. Let the water drain out and then take the new coolant and put a little into the filler at a time until the new coolant displaces the water left in there and green coolant is running out the lower hose nipple. Now you can reconnect the hose. |
| Step 6: Filling and bleeding the new coolant: |
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Here is the coolant you should be using. It comes in 1 gallon (3.85 litre) jugs which is more then enough to do the ACE. |
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I use one of these type of funnels that can attach directly to a jug and has a nice flexible hose on the end and a shut off built in.
FILLING & BLEEDING:
To fill the coolant, first fill the reservoir up to the upper level line. Then fill the radiator right up to the neck. Let it sit for a few minutes and you'll hear the fluid gurgling as it settles into the passages in the engine. Top up the rad again and wait a few more minutes. Now cap the radiator and start the engine and run it for 1 or 2 mins ONLY, snapping the throttle a couple of times. This will bleed the coolant and remove the air from inside the lines and passages. Shut the bike off and remove the radiator cap and top up the fluid again and recap. Also check the reservoir one more time and adjust the level if it's down a bit then cap it. |
| Step 7: Close up: |
Resecure the neck cover and put the gas tank back in position and bolt on. Install the seats. Finally, give the bike and work area a good hose down to remove any spilled coolant.
Ride the bike and recheck the level after a day or two. Remember, always check the level and top up the fluid using the reservoir ONLY! The radiator should only be opened when doing the complete replacement as described above. For day to day use, just adding fluid to the reservoir is sufficient. |
