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Check that all chassis nuts, bolts and screws are tightened to their correct torque values as per the service manual, pages 1-13 to 1-16 (see below) at the interval shown in the Maintenance Schedule. Also check that all cotter pins, slip clips, hose clamps and cable stays are in place and properly secured.
All the above said, I doubt anyone is going to go around and re-torqued every nut and bolt on the bike, but you should at the very least, put a wrench on all the major attachments (like wheel nuts, triple-tree attachments, etc) and check for tightness. Make it also a practice to be constantly touching things on your bike, whenever you are working on it. Don't be shy and tug and pull on things to check if they are loose. Also, constantly keep your eyes roaming over things, looking for something that has come loose or is missing. After a while, you'll find that "out of place" things jump right out at you.
Here also are scans of all the torques, directly from the factory service manual. They are saved as full page in 72 dpi resolution for your computer monitor and can be printed directly by using the print option in your browser (CTRL-P in Internet Explorer). I figured this was the best way to post the torque values as I did not want to rip off the work of other people who took the time to transcribe the values into a web page (Like Blacktop did on his site). I also didn't want to run the risk of introducing errors using OCR software or by me typing them all out, so scans you get! Use them wisely... at the very least, try and get a hold of an accurate torque wrench when doing critical work on areas where proper torque is needed (like cylinder head bolts, as an example).
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| 30 | 31 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
| 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 |
| 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 |
| 27 | 28 | 29 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
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