Relocating the Stock Horn
Relocating the Stock Horn
  A member on the forums, Croach1, came up with an excellent idea for filling in that empty spot on the left side of the carbs. What he did was relocate his horn to the left side and then covered it with an inexpensive chrome snap-on cover. The result is very polished looking and I thought I would try that for myself and post the Mod here.

Materials & Tools Needed
  1. 12mm Wrench or Socket;
  2. 5mm Allan Key;
  3. Drill and 7/16" Drill Bit;
  4. Dremel tool or air die-grinder of some kind;
  5. Bench Vise or Vise-Grips to bend the bracket;
  6. Chrome Horn Cover - I used THIS one from Show Chrome - $12.00;
  7. A couple of Tie Wraps
  8. New - #10-32 Tap and a #21 drill bit for the pilot hole. (if you want to try the newer version of the mod)
  9. New - Small piece of aluminum or steel sheet, about 6" by 6" before you cut it.


  After having this mod for over a couple of riding seasons now, I found that the plastic nut holding the whole choke cable on was a weak point. It would constantly come loose, causing the horn to rotate forward and hit the engine and the threads on the choke were getting badly worn out. It was also very difficult to adjust the idle when the horn was mounted this way. So while working on my carbs, I decided to redo this mod with a few differences.

What I did was make a new horn bracket that mounted to the two rear bolts that hold the forward cylinder's fake fins on. These bolts are recessed allan head types, so I drilled down inside the recessed part about 1/2" and tapped it for a #10 screw. I scratched my head a lot over the last couple of years trying to think of a way to mount a bracket securely and this is the best way i could come up with, that doesn't involve a lot of fabricating. It was very easy to tap into these bolts as they are not hardened steel.

You can still try the original mod below, I'll leave it there, with the new instructions on top here. In any case, you'll have to remove the horn and re-route your wires as per the old instructions below.

Update 1:  Here's the newly mounted horn. It looks almost identical to my original mod, but now it's mounted on a seperate bracket that holds it firmly in place at two points. The choke can now be put back to original condition so it doesn't get worn out or over-worked anymore. Update 2:  Here's the new bracket I just made from some aluminum. I used paper to size it out and get the holes right for the bolts. you can vary the position of the horn by quite a bit. Just mock it up in paper first to make sure the horn won't interfere with anything.

Update 3:  Here's the two special bolts used to mount the fake fins on the cylinders. You can drill down right inside them for about 1/2" with a #21 machine drill bit and tap for a #10-32 screw size (national fine thread). Update 4:  Here's a close up of the bracket mounted and the screws in the bolts.

Step 1:

  Remove the nut holding the horn bracket to the frame and then unplug the two wires from the horn.

Step 2:

  Using a bench vise or vise-grips of some sort, bend the bracket like shown below (bent in two steps). This is to provide clearance between the horn and the throttle quadrant on the carbs.

Step 3:

  Drill out the hole in the bracket to at least 7/16" and then cut a notch in it like shown below. The hole has to be big enough to fit over the plastic threaded end of the choke cable and the notch allows you to slide the bracket on over the narrow part of the choke cable and then slide it up over the end. Adjust the hole and slot as necessary, trying to keep it snug and not too loose.

Step 4:

  Remove the choke bracket by removing the hex head bolt on the rear cylinder that holds it in place. Pull out the choke knob and bracket and unscrew the plastic nut and seperate the bracket from the choke knob. Then slide the horn bracket on first, followed by the choke bracket and screw the plastic nut back on. Adjust the angle on the choke bracket so that when it is mounted back on, the horn sits vertical. Tighten everything up while it is off like this, since it's much easier then trying to do it while it's mounted on the cylinder. I also found that the plastic nut didn't hold my bracket very securely on it's own, so I dabbed some epoxy around the whole thing to stiffen it up, after I had it all in place and adjusted.

Step 5:

  Next, we want to re-route the horn wire. It's easier to do this with the tank removed, or even just lifted up a bit. I also took the neck covers off for more access. Loosen the two cable ties shown below with the arrows. You just have to lift up on the tabs and gently pull the ties to loosen them. Then pull out the horn cable and pass it through under the top frame structure, above the forward cylinder head until it's coming out somehwere near the throttle cables on the left side of the bike. Don't forget to pull those cable ties tight again after you have the horn wire out.

Step 6:

  I routed the horn wire along the lower throttle cable and then down under the horn on the forward side. I then used two tie wraps (see arrows) to secure the horn wire and keep it from interfering with the throttle at all. This is the horn mounted with the wires secure.

Step 7:

  Finally, just snap on the horn cover of choice and you have a simple yet effective mod!.


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