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My wheel alignment hash marks are dead on, are yours?


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#1 cyanide

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 02:15 AM

So, I am preparing for my first big "epic" ride starting tomorrow morning (8 hours from now).  In preparation, I fabricated aluminum boxes that perfectly line my (Fake) leather saddlebags.  Now they are hardmounted to the bike and very durable! (Pictures to follow).  I also installed the new Saddlemen seat (which makes the side covers look bizarrely out of place).  And, I installed the 38T sprocket and shortened my chain (DID 525 VX @ 122 links to 120 links).  I won't have time to advance the timing nor change the clutch springs (not enough time before this trip).  And silly me, I thought I was buying a throttle assist, in the end I bought the counter weight that offsets the weight of the Karyakyn throttle assist...so no throttle assist for this trip.

 

Anyway, in previous work on my rear tire I noticed after very careful measurement that the little hash marks on the swing arm forks and the rear wheel axle retainer plates were pretty much band on.  To the extent that I made a mental note that all I ever had to do ON THIS BIKE to align the back wheel was to make sure the hash marks matched on both sides and I was done.  Which is good, because in my rush to change the sprocket, shorten the chain etc, I wouldn't have time to screw around with wrapping string around the back tire and driving myself crazy with that methodology.

 

Has anyone else noted that their hash marks are similarly accurate?  Is my bike the odd one out?  Or, is this clearly a sign of my incompetence?

 

Cheers

 

John


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#2 tabaka45

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 08:45 AM

I would agree but we are still “eyeballing” the marks. I measured from the center of the swing arm bolt to the center of the axel.

#3 gcrank1

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 12:36 PM

Once you get the rear axle at the same measurement side to side as said above note if the hash marks 'line up'. If so, you can depend on that eyeball method to be pretty close.

But more importantly, when it is all squared up all you do is loosen the adjuster screw locknut each side and give the adjuster the same 'number of head flats' adjustment. This pulls the axle back evenly side to side. I go 2-3 flats, then the other side; not too many at a time, and this with the axle nut not loosened way up but with a bit of tension. As long as you dont overtighten the chain (so, 'sneak up' on the right freeplay) and have to kick the rear wheel forward and start over, this is a quick, efficient and accurate way to adjust a chain.

More chains are wrecked by overtightening than running a bit loose.


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