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#1 ernie

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 05:20 PM

I have a 2003 ace i bought in 2004.  It has been setting about 1 year and now runs terrible. I drained old gas, blew out tank and air and gas filters. Checked plugs.  It still running terrible.  Seems to run a little  better when choke is on. Any suggestions?   THANK YOU   



#2 Vomio

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 08:23 PM

It sounds like you may have clogged or gummed up jets or passages in the carbs from the old gas.

The sure fix is to pull the carbs and clean the passages and jets.

It is a bit of a job and will eat a few hours the first time, but it is well documented http://www.750ace.com/extras.html and as long as you have some basic tools and a place to work not too difficult. Their are also posts in the FAQ and Maintenance Forums that might prove useful. 

I would recommend taking pictures as you go as a memory tool for hose and cable routing.

If you run into any problems just yell, others here have been there before you and can help.

 

I would be amiss if I didn't mention various fuel additives that may help without pulling the carbs, a lot of people here swear by Seafoam ( Do a search on it in the Forums) and since your bike does run it may help clear things out, I wouldn't hold my breath, but you never know it may work and for the risk of a few bucks.  I'm sure it is better odds than most lotteries.



#3 Roady60

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Posted 06 August 2017 - 12:45 PM

I will tell you what you need to do, having done it TWICE, once the wrong way and just did it the right way.

 

1 - After you remove the air box and tubes, take photos of both sides of the carbs so you know what goes where.

2 - Pull the carbs.  DO NOT separate them or mess with the screw and linkage that opens them together.

3 - I take them apart one at a time.  The rear has a larger mainjet, you can't mix them if you only do one.

4 - Buy anything you think is marginal, unless you enjoy rebuilding these carbs.  I don't.

      I bought both the slides and the air cutoffs, both parts rubber, both 17 years old, new rubber needle and the seats,  yours can't       be in much better shape than mine.

5 - Remove the screws that adjust mixture at low speed, you can't clean them without doing it.

6 - SOAK the pilot jet, needle jet holder, and main jet.  The long copper tube that goes into the carb bowl can't be removed, but you      MUST clear it for your choke to work.  I had to put several drops of the Berryman Chem Dip on them to loosen crud.

     Pass a VERY fine wire through the pilot jet and needle jet holder holes.  Blow carb cleaner through them too.

7 - Finally, spray carb cleaner through ALL 4 Places that gas must pass.

      Very hard to see when you spray through the choke tube, the carb cleaner comes out of the opening in your carb thats

      behind the choke cable end.  

8 - Put your jets back in, and spray carb cleaner through all 4 places it must pass again. 

9 - Put it back together.  If at any point you are not sure, youtube MatthewMCRepair.  His short video helps and I highly

      recommend buying his $20 vid that takes you through the carbs, step by step, and shows you exactly where to make

      sure carb cleaner sprays through, cause if gas doesnt, you wasted your time at this.  Guess how I know?

 

I spent about $250 on parts alone.  



#4 X3R0

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Posted 07 August 2017 - 08:46 AM

I will tell you what you need to do, having done it TWICE, once the wrong way and just did it the right way.

 

1 - After you remove the air box and tubes, take photos of both sides of the carbs so you know what goes where.

2 - Pull the carbs.  DO NOT separate them or mess with the screw and linkage that opens them together.

3 - I take them apart one at a time.  The rear has a larger mainjet, you can't mix them if you only do one.

4 - Buy anything you think is marginal, unless you enjoy rebuilding these carbs.  I don't.

      I bought both the slides and the air cutoffs, both parts rubber, both 17 years old, new rubber needle and the seats,  yours can't       be in much better shape than mine.

5 - Remove the screws that adjust mixture at low speed, you can't clean them without doing it.

6 - SOAK the pilot jet, needle jet holder, and main jet.  The long copper tube that goes into the carb bowl can't be removed, but you      MUST clear it for your choke to work.  I had to put several drops of the Berryman Chem Dip on them to loosen crud.

     Pass a VERY fine wire through the pilot jet and needle jet holder holes.  Blow carb cleaner through them too.

7 - Finally, spray carb cleaner through ALL 4 Places that gas must pass.

      Very hard to see when you spray through the choke tube, the carb cleaner comes out of the opening in your carb thats

      behind the choke cable end.  

8 - Put your jets back in, and spray carb cleaner through all 4 places it must pass again. 

9 - Put it back together.  If at any point you are not sure, youtube MatthewMCRepair.  His short video helps and I highly

      recommend buying his $20 vid that takes you through the carbs, step by step, and shows you exactly where to make

      sure carb cleaner sprays through, cause if gas doesnt, you wasted your time at this.  Guess how I know?

 

I spent about $250 on parts alone.  

You missed a step

1b- DRAIN THE FLOAT BOWLS - attach a 1/4" hose to the nipples underneath and use a flat screw driver and open the valve to drain the bowls into a container.. no one likes spilled gas.


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#5 tabaka45

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 08:49 PM

If it runs I would definitely try Seafoam first. Put as much as a full can in a gallon of fresh gas and let it idle 10-15 minutes to be sure the mixture gets in and through the carbs. Let it sit for 24-48 hours. Add some fresh gas and take a ride. I’ve seen this work for outboards and other bikes. If it only set up for a year you may be lucky. Good luck.