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#1 Mario

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 02:00 AM

Hello Everybody. I am new here and am having an issue that I hope some of you may be able to guide me in the right direction. I have a 2002 Honda Shadow ACE Deluxe 750. I changed my clutch plates and springs. Now I have no clutch. It seems like a pretty straight forward procedure so I am baffled by the end result. I have gone on line and looked to see if I could find a video for my bike and see nothing. I guess I just cant see what I could be doing wrong. I have the manual and it looks like I put it all back together correctly but obviously not. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

Mario  



#2 Cleve

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 10:33 AM

no clutch meaning it wont dis-engage to get it in gear?  Or wont engage to move the bike?  either way, run through the clutch cable adjustment procedures, check the links under extras on the main page.


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#3 Cleve

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 10:41 AM

Other questions:

 

1 did you soak the new clutch plates in oil overnight 1st

 

2 verify you did not over-torque the 4 bolts holding the clutch plate lifter (they break really easy - intentionally to prevent other damage)

 

3 clutch lifter rod #13 in this diagram in properly  http://www.ronayers....20a303fd/clutch


Cleve

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#4 Mario

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 04:52 PM

Hey thanks for the response. Everything that you mentioned is good as a matter of fact I put it all back together the first time and and put the oil in that's when I found out there was a problem. I am now working on it dry and checking it by having it in gear and pulling the clutch to see if it will move with no luck. I really am confused because there is not much to this.

#5 Cleve

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 05:06 PM

dry?   the new friction plates NEED to be soaked in oil at least overnight before installation, otherwise, they probably wont release. And they may still tend to grab more at 1st.  Try it with the original friction plates maybe as I've never heard of anyone wearing a set out on these bikes.


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#6 Vomio

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 06:49 PM

They definitely can get worn out, my clutch was pretty much pooched when I bought the bike with 39,000 km on it, I blamed the two previous owners being beginners and slipping the clutch too much, the frictions were done, even the steels were below spec. and the springs were too short.

 

Back to the original problem, may be the last narrow friction with the judder washers is in the wrong place and is stacked with the other plates instead of its own short slots in the clutch basket.

 

I moved this topic here from Announcements.


Edited by Vomio, 27 April 2017 - 07:05 PM.
Moved


#7 Cleve

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 07:28 PM

OK, now I've heard of one with obvious wear, but it was still working?  And you're probably right about the one plate being out of location, hadn't thought of that one.


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#8 Vomio

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 07:56 PM

Mario:  Take a look at page 8 - 19 in the Service Manual it is the friction clutch plate "B".

The Service Manual is in the "Extras" section of this site if you don't already have it.

 

Note its location in the clutch basket.



#9 Vomio

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 08:32 PM

Cleve:  My clutch was slipping in the 4th and 5th gear with throttle roll on, it started on hills IIRC and eventually 1st to 2nd gear with the power quickly reapplied was like a CVT and the throttle had to be backed off to get it to hook-up solidly.   I ended up installing a full Barnett Kevlar kit as a replacement with no problems thus far.



#10 Cleve

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 11:27 PM

At 39,000km? that's like only 25k miles, wonder if they used an energy-conserving oil in it with the friction modifiers? that would have done it.


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#11 Vomio

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 06:54 AM

Cleve:  I hadn't thought of that, I changed the oil to something suitable as soon as I got it, thanks to this website, but you are right that could have well been the cause of its demise.   The bike was dealership maintained for its first three owners, but the last two were probably uninformed, mostly good intentioned, DIYers.  It came with cleanish looking oil,  but an externally grubby well attached chrome K&N filter. 



#12 mrjo1340

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 04:21 PM

I had an issue last year where by my clutch was slipping as i used regular Castrol GTX 10-40 for automotive and my clutch was slipping so bad I almost bought a new one but thanks to Vomio who pointed out this potential issue, I quickly corrected it.
I'm not gonna get into the infamous oil debate, but as many before me said, Just make sure it's compatible with wet clutches.

Edited by mrjo1340, 28 April 2017 - 04:22 PM.


#13 Mario

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 06:34 PM

Ok so I am still stumped. I have taken my clutch again and put it back together and I can't for the life of me see how it is supposed to disingage or ingage which ever is the correct term. Everything is is locked in with the lock nut so there appears that there is no room for movement. I have followed the diagram in the manual to no avail. I have looked at this for ever and am at my wit's end with it. I can not except that this should be this difficult.

#14 Vomio

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 07:15 PM

OK if you are used to push rod clutch actuation with the pressure plate on the outside, this one definitely is a head scratcher.

Strangest damn thing, it baffled me too when I first spread it out on my patio, the pressure plate that moves is actually to the inside of the clutch pack.

Take a look at this diagram http://www.cheapcycl...20a302b6/clutch

Part 9 is actually what is moving inwards and releasing pressure on the clutch pack when the clutch lifter plate is pushed.

 

I hope this makes sense, because it is a simple thing that quite honestly is simply confusing and you are not alone.



#15 Mario

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 01:24 PM

Ok first and for most I want to thank everybody that gave me tips and advice. I finally found the problem. I was sent the wrong clutch plates. The set they sent me were to thick. Now that I have the correct plates I now also have clutch. What a great feeling lol. I knew it was not rocket science. Again thanks everyone. Mario

#16 Cleve

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 01:53 PM

that's another one i didn't think of,,, wrong parts.      Glad you got it figured out.


Edited by Cleve, 04 May 2017 - 01:53 PM.

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#17 Mario

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:05 AM

Ok so I thought my problem was solved . I got another set of clutch plates and installed them. I can disengage my clutch when the bike is not running. So I soaked the plates in oil and out them in and put everything back together and added the oil. Started the bike in neutral pulled in my clutch handle put it in gear and it jumped and stalled. Now I am really confused again. I can engage and disengage when the bike is not running but when it is running the clutch does not seem to work. I adjusted the clutch cable and still it wont disengage. Please if anybody has any ideas I really could use some help. Thank you Mario 



#18 Vomio

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 07:26 AM

Have you tried starting the bike in neutral and let the bike warm up a bit before trying to start it in gear?

The new clutch plates may be dragging.

What oil are you using?

Try adjusting your cable so that you have the width of a nickel (5 cent piece) of slack between the handlebar lever and the lever stop.

My bike will jump a bit starting in gear when cold although not enough to stall, until the oil warms up some.


Edited by Vomio, 19 May 2017 - 07:28 AM.


#19 Mario

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 01:26 PM

Yes I started it in neutral and let it warm up. When I pull the clutch in and put it in gear that's when it jumps and stalls. Like I said I can move the bike with the clutch pulled in when it is in gear and not running. That is what makes this so confusing.

#20 Vomio

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 08:10 PM

I hope somebody will chime in here with a possible solution because you have me baffled once again.