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ACE VT750 Air Box to Pro-Flo How To


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#1 Aced It

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 12:35 PM

I have had more than a few people PM me or ask me about how I went about doing my air box conversion. So alright, here we go, a basic how-to. I'm sure other bikes could scavenge this how-to, but it applies directly to my Honda Shadow ACE VT750. I did this mod almost a year and half ago as of this post, so the bike looks a bit different in the pics below. I can tell you that I have not had one problem with fitment nor performance at all.  I do recommend that you also consider re-jetting your carbs to accommodate the increased air flow.  That being said, my trial and error can be your benefit ;)

All is done at your own cost and risk.... duh.

Parts List:
. 1 each of Edelbrock Pro Flo air cleaner p/n 1002. Holley makes an identical one and I assume one company makes it for the other. However, Advance Auto had the Edelbrock in my area.
. 2 each of appropriately sized stainless steel eye-bolts
. 2 each of tapered head bolts (thread diameter small enough for fitting through the eye of the eye-bolt and the stock air box attaching brackets to the cylinder head covers)
. 4 each of lock nuts (2 for attaching the Pro Flo assembly to the eye-bolts; 2 for attaching aluminum plate to the Pro-Flo backplate)
. Rivet gun (or smaller bolt/nuts for attaching aluminum plate to Pro-Flo backplate)
. Air-saw, hand shears, or similar for cutting aluminum
. Drill with assortment of metal bits
. File
. Thin sheet of aluminum at least as big as the Pro Flo outer dimensions
. Gasket maker or exterior silicone
. Razor blade
. Cardboard or poster board
. Mechanics gloves (you're working with sharp edges)


Procedure:
( 1 ) - Remove the stock air intake cover, remove the air filter and the air box from the intake plenum under the tank.
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( 2 ) - The stock air box has a (sort-of) triangle shaped intake tube. If you pull on it gently you'll notice that it's attached to the box with rubberized adhesive. Pull more and it will begin to lift and separate. Use a razor blade to assist cutting only the adhesive until completely removed.
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( 3 ) - Place the triangle shaped intake tube you just cut off the stock air box back onto the intake plenum on the bike. Leave loose as you may need to reposition it up and down a bit in the following procedure(s).

( 4 ) - The Pro-Flo backplate has a huge beveled hole because it’s made for automotive carburetors. Using the air-saw, aluminum shears or other cutting device, cut out the circle around the beveled edges where it meets the flat surface of the back of the plate. The entire backplate surface should be able to lay flat if you do this correctly. As a side note: I chose to cut out this area so as to bring the air intake assembly closer to the bike. You 'could' choose otherwise, but then that would change the entire how-to. :lol: Here's the beveled area:
GEDC0469.jpg

... The following steps 5 - 7 and part of 9 related to the cardboard template I did not do, but it may be easier for you and allow for errors to be corrected before finalizing; you decide ...

( 5 ) - Lay the Pro-Flo backplate on a piece of cardboard or poster board. Trace the overall outer edge and cut out your tracing from the cardboard. This will be used for your template prior to finalizing your modifications.

( 6 ) - Hold the cardboard template up to the bike against the triangle shaped intake tube. Position the template up and down so as to clear the fuel tank as best you can while lining up with the stock attachment brackets on the cylinder head covers. When you feel comfortable with the position, hold and trace the outer edge of the triangle shaped intake tube on the back side of the cardboard. Also mark the locations of the brackets, as you will be drilling holes into the new aluminum sheet you'll be using.

( 7 ) - Transfer the shape of the cardboard cut out to your aluminum sheet. Now trace the shape inward on the aluminum about 1/8 to 1/4 inch so as to come close to filling the entire inside of the Pro-Flo backplate.

( 8 ) - Attach the aluminum cut-out to the Pro-Flo backplate on the inside using rivets or small nuts and bolts (your choice). I recommend using a gasket making paste/cream or exterior silicone in-between the plates for better air flow properties. Shown here with step 9 completed and eye-bolts installed:
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( 9 ) - On the cardboard, cut out the triangle shape you traced earlier. Place the cardboard on the back side of the Pro-Flo backplate aligning with the outer edges. Transfer the triangle shape to the Pro-Flo backplate. The top edge will more than likely run past your aluminum sheet onto the Pro-Flo backplate; that’s okay. Now trace inward about 1/8 – 1/4 inch. Cut out this inner shape. Be careful when you get to the top part as it gets a bit narrow and you could split the back of the Pro-Flo backplate (like I did; I had to use a piece of rigid wire pulled tight around two rivets to fix it). Not a big deal as it’s not seen when complete, but nevertheless a bit of a pit-fall. In any event, your piece should look very similar to the pics in step 8.

( 10 ) - Install the triangle shaped intake tube to the back of the Pro Flo plate. Simply push the split ends in and through so it grabs onto the aluminum. You may have to trim and shape the aluminum a bit but don’t go too much. Tighter is better and remember you can trim material, but it’ll be really hard to add it back. Test fit the assembly on the bike. You may have to move it up and down a bit on the intake plenum to clear the fuel tank. Shown here already installed on the bike:
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( 11 ) - Once you’ve got it fitting correctly, now you’ll have to make the left and right attachments to the engine’s cylinder covers. Place each ‘eye’ of the eye bolts on top of the stock brackets on the cylinder covers, where the original air box attached to, then drop a beveled bolt through the top and loosely apply a lock nut from the bottom. Point the threaded ends of the eye bolts outward, perpendicular to the bike.

( 12 ) - Align the Pro-Flo backplate on the bike where it mounts. Hold this still and mark the back side where the threaded ends of the eye bolts will go through the back plate. Drill out those holes.

( 13 ) - Install the Pro-Flo backplate on the bike, ensuring the threaded ends of the eye bolts come through the two holes you drilled in the backing. Once installed, use the other two lock nuts to tighten the back plate to the bike. If you installed the triangular rubber piece on the bike first, now you’ll have to re-attach it to your Pro Flo. It works either way.
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( 14 ) - Install the Pro Flo filter and cover and you’re done!
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A few things to note … It’s not an exact science or perfect instruction that I’m giving you. Hopefully I covered it all correctly from my memory. By that I mean you’ll have to take your time and pay attention to what you’re doing to make certain things will line up. The first couple of times I ran into issues having the intake too high where it hit the fuel tank. The next time, it was too far out that the triangular rubber piece wouldn’t stay attached or would pop off occasionally. This is where a cardboard template might save you some errors. The cool part about this whole thing is that you can go back to your stock intake by simply re-adhering the intake piece back to the stock air box. And lastly, I don’t recommend running this intake in wet weather, or basically wet enough to saturate and cause gobs of water to enter the intake plenum. It would take a lot of water to get up in there, but I feel better informing you of this. :mrgreen:

If you notice any errors/additions/omissions in my how-to, please don't hesitate to chime in! As well, if you've done this already and did something different please share!


Edited by Aced It, 27 March 2013 - 08:29 AM.

Click here for My Road to Rod - '03 Shadow ACE750

Then here for My Road to Bob - '91 Shadow VLX600
d1366af1-01d5-476d-b33c-d7c1bae05a94.jpg
"Keep the rubber side down ... unless of course you have a rubber head!"


#2 Bob_suruncle

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 10:50 AM

Nice write up. Thanks Aced It

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#3 oigetit

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 06:11 PM

Good job! I love the look of it! I used to have an air filter that was wide open to the elements like that. After being parked at work during a rain it ran a tad rough, lol. I ended up getting a shower cap to stretch over it if it looked like rain. Worked great.
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#4 Swilly

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 07:02 PM

Hey Aced,

 

Great write-up, I've been considering it but don't have anywhere local I can go look at one.

 

Quick question, is the outer cover stable enough to blast and powdercoat? Some pics make it look like chromed mesh, where others look more like perforated sheet. I think it would look great in gloss black.......

 

Swilly


Edited by Swilly, 22 March 2013 - 07:18 PM.

When the knock on the door said "Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms" I naturally thought it was a delivery......

 

 

IMGcroppedforsig400_0072.JPG


#5 Bendy

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 06:26 AM

Hey Swilly,

The part actually comes in Black as well.  I haven't seen any pictures of it but Edelbrock lists 2 part codes for that air filter.  Black and chrome.  

cheers


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#6 Biker Dash

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 01:52 PM

I don't know if I wish to use the same filter element, but it gives good instruction in case I do decide to go with a new one.


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#7 Swilly

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 02:40 PM

Hey Swilly,

The part actually comes in Black as well.  I haven't seen any pictures of it but Edelbrock lists 2 part codes for that air filter.  Black and chrome.  

cheers

Thanks, Bendy!

 

I called around to the local shops, but nobody had it in their books. Called Edelbrock directly, it's P/N 10023 (chrome is #1002) and called Oreillys back with the info. 20 bux plus 7 for the ride from Edelbrock is doable, so it'll be here in a week. I'll post up pics when done!

 

Maybe I can shave the K&N I bought for the beanbox and fit it inside............. :thumbup:

 

Swilly


When the knock on the door said "Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms" I naturally thought it was a delivery......

 

 

IMGcroppedforsig400_0072.JPG


#8 PlaneCrazy

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 10:23 AM

Just an FYI - I added this mod to the "Mods" section of the website so we have it permanently there.  Thanks Acet It!


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#9 Aced It

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 11:00 AM

Just an FYI - I added this mod to the "Mods" section of the website so we have it permanently there.  Thanks Acet It!

Thank YOU!  Glad to help out.


Click here for My Road to Rod - '03 Shadow ACE750

Then here for My Road to Bob - '91 Shadow VLX600
d1366af1-01d5-476d-b33c-d7c1bae05a94.jpg
"Keep the rubber side down ... unless of course you have a rubber head!"


#10 Swilly

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 08:21 PM

It don't look bad in black, either. :lol:

 

Actually I'm still on the fence; for 25 bucks I can get a chrome one locally and keep the modded base, just swap out the grill.

 

IMG_0139blackfilter.JPG


When the knock on the door said "Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms" I naturally thought it was a delivery......

 

 

IMGcroppedforsig400_0072.JPG


#11 Aced It

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 02:07 PM

It don't look bad in black, either. :lol:

 

Actually I'm still on the fence; for 25 bucks I can get a chrome one locally and keep the modded base, just swap out the grill.

 

IMG_0139blackfilter.JPG

 

Good for you man!  Everything go okay with the fabbing and such?  ... Is that flat black?  Might look better in gloss to match your bike?  Eh, figured I mention it solely because you're questioning it too.  Still looks great!


Click here for My Road to Rod - '03 Shadow ACE750

Then here for My Road to Bob - '91 Shadow VLX600
d1366af1-01d5-476d-b33c-d7c1bae05a94.jpg
"Keep the rubber side down ... unless of course you have a rubber head!"


#12 Swilly

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 09:26 PM

Good for you man!  Everything go okay with the fabbing and such?  ... Is that flat black?  Might look better in gloss to match your bike?  Eh, figured I mention it solely because you're questioning it too.  Still looks great!

Install went just fine with your tutorial, thanks again for the write-up!

 

   The screen itself is gloss, but since the foam is probably 80% of the surface area it looks pretty dull :angry: . For a total of 60 bux compared to 300 for a Hypercharger, I figger I'll pick up a chrome one locally and do some swapping. Of course I could always use whatever I don't mount on the ace and make another one for the SS.... :lol:

 

   I did change 2 things on your mod, just to make things easier. Grabbed two wing nuts to fit the new studs on the inside of the backing plate, that way I only need a phillips to loosen the air horn band and pull the whole assembly to access the carb. Reefed on the tapered bolts with an allen wrench, because hopefully they'll never need to come off. Never did like having an allen wrench that close to the tank paint anyways!. I also barely loosened the green bolt on the front mount, and rotated the L bracket so it's vertical instead of horizontal. Moves the stud hole in the backing plate inword, plus the front stud can be moved up and down to make the filter closer to level. Still need to add some black duct tape to cover the holes in the plate.......

 

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That takes care of this weeks mod!

 

Swilly


When the knock on the door said "Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms" I naturally thought it was a delivery......

 

 

IMGcroppedforsig400_0072.JPG


#13 FJR 9

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 10:16 PM

That's a good idea!  


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#14 Bob_suruncle

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 10:01 AM

Looking good Swilly!  thanks again Aced it for providing the  write up.... I am running out of excuses for not doing this  :rolleyes:


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#15 Aced It

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 07:27 AM

Awesome Swilly!  Glad I could help.  :thumbsup: 


Click here for My Road to Rod - '03 Shadow ACE750

Then here for My Road to Bob - '91 Shadow VLX600
d1366af1-01d5-476d-b33c-d7c1bae05a94.jpg
"Keep the rubber side down ... unless of course you have a rubber head!"


#16 Swilly

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 09:15 PM

BTW,

 

Folks say black is the new chrome. Screw 'em. The black filter is on the shelf, maybe I'll put it on my mower? :lol:

 

IMG_0170.JPG


When the knock on the door said "Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms" I naturally thought it was a delivery......

 

 

IMGcroppedforsig400_0072.JPG


#17 BILLMANswe

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 09:52 AM

BTW,

 

Folks say black is the new chrome. Screw 'em. The black filter is on the shelf, maybe I'll put it on my mower? :lol:

 

IMG_0170.JPG

 

 

 

Like that mod! How big jets are ju running with?



#18 mkhemi

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 02:39 PM

Okay so this post inspired me to try a similar mod:

 

The reason for the change is because I put 8" forwards on from scootmods, and found that the stock air cleaner was pushing my leg too far outboard for comfort.  I needed the air cleaner to not stand out so far, however being currently short on funds and the skill to do a re-jet, directed me in a different direction - 6.5" round chrome air cleaner.

 

I will post some pictures when I can:

 

Materials:

1 - Air cleaner kit http://www.amazon.co...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 - Sheet of galvanized sheet metal (used for home cold air returns) something like this http://www.lowes.com..._sales_dollar|1

3.  Torch and solder

4.  silicon clear

5.  Tin Snips

6.  Dremel with cutting discs

7.  1/4 inch bolt with nut

8.  Sharpie

9.  Drill & Drill bit

 

Stock airbox removal is the same, fabbing up a new solid back plate for the new air cleaner is the same.

 

The difference for this air cleaner though is that there is nothing to rivet to, so I spot soldered it, JB Weld would work also I assume.  Then I siliconed the joint of the air cleaner plate and the sheet metal all the way around.

 

Instead of a carboard template of the intake connection I suggest removing it and tracing the inside onto what you want to cut, and then cutting it with a dremel and cutting discs.  That way it starts out small and you can increase the size if necessary.

 

I then made a bracket out of the sheet metal (folded and hammered flat 4 times) bent it slightly to clear the installed rubber intake and then soldered it to the back plate.

 

Assembly the backplate, filter and chrome top plate, select a drill bit that just fits in the hole in the chrome top plate and drill a hole into the bracket you just made.

 

Install the stud that came with the air filter, and place a nut on the top and bottom of the bracket at the desired length, cut off the excess.

 

And here is the trick I used to not rejet as of yet - I took the round filter and placed one flat edge on the factory edge of the sheet metal, using the sharpie I traced a line while rolling the filter down the metal, and cut out with the snips.  This made a band of metal that I sandwiched between the back cover and the top cover, essentially necking down the intake so the bike couldnt breath so freely.

 

Obviously this is a guessing game, but I started by measuring the length of the opening under the stock air filter and subtracted that distance from the overall circumference of the circle to get the length of metal I needed to cut.  It seemed to have been a good guess, just a bit of tweaking and I have no popping on decel, no hesitations or bog downs on accel.  Have to monitor the plugs and see how they weather and make adjustments from there.

 

Not perfect but my leg fits a ton better on the bike and no money had to be spent on rejetting.

 

The only problem so far with this is that the bare part of the engine is showing since there are no fins under the stock air box.

 

 

 

 



#19 scrapdog2grand

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 10:41 AM

Okay so this post inspired me to try a similar mod:

 

 

 

The only problem so far with this is that the bare part of the engine is showing since there are no fins under the stock air box.

To take care of this problem, you can purchase a cylinder cover for the left rear cylinder, and mod it to fit right front.


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#20 Ericdwatson72

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 12:48 PM

Hello from Oklahoma. Don't know if anyone will respond to this post, seeing it appears to have ended in 2013.

 

Anyway, I have a 2001, I did the Edelbrock mod. I also have non baffled pipes, the carb is also jetted to 110 in both jugs. Currently fuel screws are set at 3 rotations each. I also had to modify the back plate, closing off the opening to a 1" hole. Before I did that, the bike wouldn't get over 35mph. To be honest the bike runs great in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and garbage after that. I have no high end torque or hp over 60mph. It seems in 4th and 5th, the bike is choking. Unless someone has a solution to this issue, looks as if i'm putting garbage ass stock set up, back on.

 

Any ideas?!